Christmas Card

Saw this on a sweater on Tosh O...had to try a needlepoint version! This works great as a card. I'm wondering if I should put a fir tree to the left.

Pictures and More on the Mystery Motif

I jimmied the pattern to get a more defined shape, and smaller version: Work rnds 1 - 3 the same way. Sc evenly around making 4 spikes in the 4th instead of 5th rnd. Just get rid of row 4, with the clusters.

You should look like a goldfish cracker when it's half done. I did not intend this. But it looks good when done:

As I always say, my patterns are just guides, and I was quick with this one, so EYOR!

Mystery Motif on The AntiCraft

My best guess as to this shape:

Rnd 1 Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 4, 3 tr in ring, ch 4, 3 dc in ring, ch 4, 3 tr in ring, ch , join with slip st to top of ch-3. (4 ch-4 spaces) Rnd 2 Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1), *skip 1 dc, dc in next dc, [(ch 1, dc) three times] in next ch-4 space, ch 2, tr in next tr, ch 1, skip 1 tr, tr in next tr, ch 2, [(dc, ch 1) three times] in next ch-4 space **, dc in next dc, ch 1; repeat from * to ** once more, join with slip st to third chain of ch-4. Rnd 3 Ch 3 (counts as dc), *dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next ch-1 space, dc in next dc, (dc in next ch-1 space, ch 2, dc in next dc) two times, dc in next ch-2 space, ch 2, 3 tr in next ch-1 space, ch 2, dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next dc, (dc in next ch-1 space, dc in next dc) two times, ch 2 **, dc in next dc; repeat from * to ** once more, join with slip st to top of ch-3. Rnd 4 Ch 3 (counts as dc), *dc4tog in next dc, dc in next dc, ch 3 skip next ch-2 space, dc4tog in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc dc in next 2 dc, ch1 skip 1 dc, dc4tog in next dc, ch 3 , skip next ch-2 space, dc in next tr, dc4tog in next tr, dc in next tr, ch 3, skip next ch-2 space, dc4tog in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, dc4tog in next dc, ch 3 skip next ch-2 space**, dc in next dc;repeat from * to ** one more, join with st to top of ch-3. Rnd 5 Ch 1, sc in same st, 1 sc in cluster, 1 sc in dc, 4 sc in 3 ch space, 1 sc in second cluster, ch 7, working in the butt of the chain stitch, sc in second ch from hook, half double crochet in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in last ch, skip 4 sts and slip stitch into next st,* sc into 3rd cluster, sc 4 times in 3 ch space,sc in dc, sc in cluster, sc in dc,4 sc in next 3 ch space, sc in cluster, repeat spike by ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, half double crochet in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in last ch, skip 4 sts. and slip stitch into next** repeat from * to ** 3 more times.

Brains!

I'm making one of those hats that make you look like your brain is exposed.  It's an i-cord twisted up to look like a brain on a hat, essentially.  I'm going to have to use a beige hat I already made to beat the clock.  The zombie walk is on the 27th.  It's a race against time to see if I can make 20 feet of pink brain i-cord.

Gauge Rage

I was reading a page on crochet, where the woman admitted that she prefers to crochet with the yarn held tight to the barrel of the hook in order to get an appropriate gauge.  She did not admit.  She boasted that she crochets tight.  We've all heard it, straight from s^#@ crocheters/knitters say.

First I want to say, I hear you, lady.  I do understand where you are coming from.  Since you have hooks of different sizes, and you have said hooks at your disposal, why play around?  Why, you've seen those pictures of swatches done with a J hook and K hook and isn't the difference measurable?  Isn't that important to your overall enjoyment of the project?  Doesn't each and every stitch matter in the completed whole, I mean, have you seen missed stitches?  Isn't the scale incredible?  How subtle small changes make in the overall finished and perfect...

Let me stop you right here.  See, I can't represent this idea without getting pretentious.  Because it IS snotty, and I do suggest this poor woman step outdoors once in a while and gaze up at the heavens and consider how small SHE is.  Further, maybe making everything measurable in art is a mistake.

I know how it is measurable.  I understand gauge as a ratio between stitches and length. This is due to the circumference of the hook or needle to that of the yarn or fiber you are using and the stitches you make ought to be somewhat consistent.  I see how that is attractive and I do try to be consistent in my crochet, knitting, and needlepoint.  That means making my stitches approximately the same in an appropriate way for the individual piece.  But to sit there through a whole project with the yarn tight around the needle would be counterproductive for several reasons.

First, it is not attractive.  It is not attractive to clench.  The finished piece will be like a picture of a starving person.  It will lack the fluff for which the yarn was designed.  Before knitting or crochet there is the spinning of the yarn; an art in itself, long neglected as an art form by the machine-made yarn manufacturers of nowadays.  That art is lost with tight, unrelenting crochet with no slack.  Your yarn is your material and you should showcase it.  The cheapest yarn can look regal with the right tension.

Secondly, who are you kidding?  Is the magic crochet fairy going to come in the night and "measure" your stitches and make sure that each one was made with the yarn tight to the barrel of the hook?  Is the recipient of your work, family, friend, client or otherwise going to check?  Only you know how tightly you worked a piece.  The tightness of the piece does not make it better in quality.  Ever put a square knot in a plastic bag and have it rip, whereas the untied bag does not rip?  Even though plastic bag handles are two ply, the same principle is at work in your yarn.  The stitches you are making will rub against one another for the rest of the life of the piece.  Do not worship your stitches, just respect them.

Third, good things happen to those who live within the guidelines of moderation.  There is such a thing as too loose, and I've seen it and I do know what the woman was afraid of doing.  Those loose, ridiculous strands that stick out because of a careless lack of tugging the slack.  It is not attractive to have loose strands.  That one strand that can ruin a huge piece, like an afghan or sweater.  Well, those stitches that are not consistent, they are called, "mistakes" and everyone makes them.  Living as if each stitch is a potential mistake is no way to crochet, though.  SUCH IS LIFE.  Slight variations in a piece can mean the difference between master and novice.  Find the Goldilocks way you can crochet, not some imagined perfection.   

One thing I don't do is a gauge swatch.  I make a gauge "whatever I'm trying to make".  I know the differences that can be cumulatively made throughout a piece because of my "way" of doing needlework.  I will not count the stitches in an inch of a 20 stitch piece, and divide the stitches into the inch to find the blah blah blah so it matches the yarn label with the pattern with my "style".  I make the thing, it fits me or somebody, and then if I need to I adjust.  Because Newton was partly wrong, that's why. 

Ice Dying Rainbow Yarn

You need red, yellow, and blue cold water dye, a dozen ice cubes and salt.  Wind the yarn around your arm into a hank shape and lay it on a screen or a rack like I have.  Place the ice cubes on the yarn evenly spread so the yarn will be soaked through as they melt.  Sprinkle the red, yellow, and blue dye so that the colors overlap slightly.  I put some red on the blue at the end to make a purple.  Orange comes through by yellow mixing with the red, and green is produced by the blue mixing with the yellow.  Over the top, sprinkle salt to set the dye.  Then, wait until the ice melts.

I helped the ice along a bit by making sure the colors were evenly distributed with a pipette, using clear tepid water, but that's not necessary.  Try leaving it alone, don't fuss or it will ruin your yellow and turn your purple brown.

Wash the yarn by hand using very cold water.  Rinse until the water runs clear.  I hung mine to dry and let it rest before I put it on a toilet paper tube to store.

Not bad for a first try.  I used cotton, so it's not as bright as some other materials.  I like how it came out, though, and I plan on using it for a trim.

News From Another Blog

Just entered to win a book at www.notyouraveragecrochet.wordpress.com/, a lovely blog with the same goals as mine.  : )